Our kits are etched from nickel silver, a material with better detailing and mechanical characteristics than ordinary brass. Some details made of wood and brass are also included.
USEFUL ASSEMBLY TOOLS
- Cyanoacrylate glue (super glue, liquid or gel form)
- Box wrench (size 5.5mm)
- Rotating cutter, tungsten carbide
- Rotating steel brush
- L-profile (aluminum), 25 × 25mm, 2 pcs.
- Soldering iron, 75W
- Solder (60/40)
- Precision minidrill
- Needle files
- Parallel wooden clamps
- Flat nose pliers
- Side cutter
- Scalpel (or other sharp hobby knife)
- Screw driver (small)
- Table vise with anvil
- Micro abrasive papers
- HSS drills, Ø0.5, 0.8, 1.0, and 2.0mm
- Clothespins (wooden, good for holding small components during soldering)
Cut away all the details from the carrier by means of a small side cutter. Use a fine needle file to file the tabs down and take off the burrs.
It is hard to successfully perform long foldings (like hood sides) by hand. Instead, clamp the piece between two sharp-edged inserts (for example aluminum L profiles, 25 × 25mm) in a vise and bend it to 90°.
Tiny details on end plates, side plates and hoods can become difficult to mount after the locomotive has been assembled. Glue or solder them into place already from the beginning!
Use simple, homemade parallel clamps (two wooden bars hold together by two long M3 screws) and ordinary clothespins as “extra hands” during soldering and assembly. Some type of miniature vise or faceplate jaw also makes it easier to keep firm hold of small components.
Mechanically bearing components, that are not screw-mounted with the included M1 or M2 screws, can preferably be soldered. Most of the seams are not visible from the outside, so you don’t have to be a master solderer! Flat details (like hood covers) and tiny components (like axle boxes and levers) benefit from being glued into place by a few drops of CA glue (liquid or gel style).
Take your time and think every step through so you don’t block or obstruct the upcoming steps! The details fit together good, but the projects must nevertheless be regarded as advanced and not to be recommended to the complete beginner!
Some weathering is highly recommended – the locomotives were used in harsh conditions and loco sheds were rare. A combination of kerosene, grease, rust, and peat chaff (or clay deposits) made the locomotives look “industrial chic” before long. Feel free to add zest to the dish by putting some oily rags and a sledge-hammer on the seat board, a tin can and some lengths of rusty chain on the cab floor, and a chain coupling carelessly thrown on top of the engine hood or over the cab side!